Tojin-baka | Ishigaki Historic Site & Sunset Spot Complete Guide

Driving along Ishigaki’s west coast, a vividly colored Chinese-style architecture suddenly leaps into view. A place where tourists who think “what is this?” and drop by are quietly struck in the heart by the heavy history behind it—that is Tojin Baka. The dazzling decorations of dragons and phoenixes, and Kannonzaki’s blue sea. Behind that beauty sleeps a tragedy called the “Robert Bowne incident” that occurred over 170 years ago.

In this article, we’ll introduce a compilation of information useful for Ishigaki sightseeing—from Tojin Baka’s historical background to access information, highlights, its appeal as a sunset spot, and the manners when visiting. A spot you’ll want to visit as a “place of learning,” not merely a sightseeing site. Be sure to read to the end.

What Kind of Place Is Tojin Baka? A Chinese-Style Memorial Grave at Ishigaki’s Kannonzaki

Tojin Baka is a memorial grave enshrining Chinese coolies, at Kannonzaki in Arakawa, Ishigaki City, Okinawa. It’s a comparatively new facility built in 1971 (Showa 46), but behind it is a fierce history called the “Robert Bowne incident” of 1852.

The greatest feature of the exterior is, above all, the vividly colored Chinese-style architecture. Roof decorations using vivid red, yellow and green lavishly, carvings of dragons and phoenixes, and statues modeled on civil and military officials are delicately applied, just as if a small Chinese palace had been brought to Ishigaki. It has such a presence that many tourists, if they don’t know the history in advance, drop by thinking it’s a mysterious power spot.

What is the “Robert Bowne incident” that became the background of its construction

To understand Tojin Baka, you first need to know the Robert Bowne incident that occurred in 1852. The outline of this incident is as follows.

1. In February 1852, about 400 Chinese laborers were put aboard the American ship Robert Bowne at Xiamen (Amoy) in Fujian, China, and set sail for California
2. Aboard the ship, inhumane abuse was rampant—queues were cut off, branding irons were applied, and so on
3. The laborers, unable to bear it, rose in revolt, killed 7 including the captain, and seized the ship
4. Without the skill to steer the ship, it ran aground off Sakieda Village, Ishigaki, on the way trying to head to Taiwan
5. 380 landed on Ishigaki, and were protected by the Ryukyu royal government and islanders
6. After that, British and American warships came, bombarded the shelter, and armed soldiers landed and shot and captured the Chinese
7. The following September, 172 survivors were repatriated to China, and 208 fell victim to death by illness, going missing, or massacre

The people of Ishigaki protected the rescued Chinese humanely and warmly, such as secretly providing food and sheltering them. Even so, it’s said that those who lost their lives from epidemics and being mentally cornered were endless. To mourn the dead, the islanders built several small stone-piled graves in the area—that is the origin of Tojin Baka.

Built in 1971 with prayers for memorial and peace

About 120 years after the incident, in 1971, the present Chinese-style Tojin Baka was built in a form gathering the old stone-piled graves scattered in the area. The construction funds were gathered by donation, and the design became one conscious of China, the victims’ homeland.

What we want to note is that 1971, when it was built, was the year before Okinawa’s reversion. There’s a background that it was built with prayers for peace at a great turning point—the return of Okinawa, long under American rule, to Japan. Within the same grounds, a memorial monument for US airmen who fell victim at the end of the Pacific War is built too, and it functions as a place wishing for “peace” across borders and ethnicities.

Tojin Baka Highlights | Vividly Colored Architectural Beauty and a Space of Prayer

The scale of Tojin Baka itself is by no means large. However, the density of decoration packed into the limited space, combined with the superb view unique to Kannonzaki, has an appeal that makes you want to visit again and again. Before visiting, let’s organize the points to keep in mind here.

Chinese-style carvings and decorations particular down to the details

What first captivates the eye upon stepping into Tojin Baka is the many carvings applied to the roof and pillars. Gaze at each one carefully and you’ll be amazed at its elaborateness.

Decorative element	Highlight point
Dragon	The fur and whiskers are delicately crafted, and even the scales are expressed three-dimensionally one by one
Phoenix	The vividly colored wings shine vividly against a background of blue sky and sea
Civil/military official statues	Placed as guardians protecting the grave, with costumes and expressions reminiscent of the Chinese dynastic era
Mounted warrior	The valiant figure gives off a dignity that mourns the victims

These decorations were made respecting the styles of the homeland of the Chinese coolies who fell victim. The impression is of a small mausoleum rather than a grave, and it’s also outstandingly photogenic. However, since making noise in a sightseeing mood or touching the decorations is NG, gaze quietly with respect.

The “memorial monument for US airmen” within the same grounds

If you visit Tojin Baka, be sure to turn your eyes to the memorial monument for US airmen within the same grounds too. This was built to commemorate US airmen who fell victim in the “Ishigaki Island incident” that occurred on Ishigaki at the end of the Pacific War.

The sight of Tojin Baka mourning Chinese laborers and the memorial monument for US airmen lined up in the same place is very symbolic. Mourning victims of different nationalities and eras in the same place. You can feel that the thought of “not repeating past tragedies” runs through this entire space.

Ishigaki’s foremost sunset viewed from Kannonzaki

Tojin Baka is on a small hill, and right before it the blue sea of Kannonzaki spreads out. Actually, here is known as one of Ishigaki’s leading sunset spots.

In the evening, the grave’s vivid colors dye in the orange sunset, becoming an even more mysterious atmosphere. Gazing at the sun sinking into the sea, wishing that the victims’ souls rest calmly. It’s a place where such quiet time flows. Since there are comparatively few tourists, it’s recommended for those who want to enjoy the sunset leisurely while avoiding crowds too. Visit about 30 minutes before sunset and you can meet the most beautiful sight.

Access to Tojin Baka | How to Get There from the Airport / Town

Tojin Baka is at Kannonzaki on Ishigaki’s west coast. It’s comparatively close from town too, a distance you can casually drop by if you have a rental car. Access is possible by bus too, but since departures are limited, care with schedule adjustment is needed.

Access by rental car / car

Departure point	Time needed	Route
New Ishigaki Airport	About 45–50 min	North on Pref. Route 79 (Ishigaki Port–Ibaruma line) toward Kannonzaki
Ishigaki Port Remote-Island Terminal	About 15–20 min	Southwest along the sea from town
Kabira Bay	About 20–25 min	Heading south via Uganzaki is good too ◎
Fusaki Beach	About 3 min	Right nearby. On foot too if staying at Fusaki

Enter “Tojin Baka” or “1625-9 Arakawa, Ishigaki City, Okinawa” into the navigation and you can arrive without getting lost. The drive along the seaside prefectural road is very pleasant, and you can head there while enjoying the blue sea seen from the car window.

Access by bus / public transport

If not using a rental car, you can use Azuma Kotsu’s local bus.

• From town: ride the “Kabira Resort Line (Route 9)” from the Ishigaki bus terminal, about 15–20 min. Right after getting off at “Tojin Baka” bus stop
• From New Ishigaki Airport: to the bus terminal on the airport line (Route 4 or 10), transfer to the Kabira Resort Line. Time needed about 60 min

Since the bus operates few departures, about several a day, be sure to confirm the timetable before visiting. Missing the return bus means a long wait, so checking the round-trip times as a set is the iron rule.

Basic information on parking / restrooms / shop, etc.

We’ve compiled Tojin Baka’s basic information. Since it’s a spot visited even on sightseeing-bus tours, facilities like parking and restrooms are firmly maintained.

Item	Details
Address	1625-9 Arakawa, Ishigaki City, Okinawa
Phone number	0980-82-1535 (Ishigaki City Hall Tourism & Culture Division)
Hours	Free to view (no particular time limit)
Closed	Open year-round
Admission	Free
Parking	Free, for about 30 cars. Sightseeing buses can park too
Restrooms	Yes (beside the parking lot)
Vending machine	Yes
Shop	A small store where you can buy sata andagi and sugarcane juice

Nearby Sightseeing Spots to Tour with Tojin Baka

The viewing time of Tojin Baka itself is about 20–30 minutes. Since you’ve come all the way to the Kannonzaki area, touring nearby sightseeing spots together is recommended. You can efficiently experience Ishigaki’s appeal on a half-day course.

The nearby “Kannonzaki Lighthouse”

Right on the west side of Tojin Baka is the pure-white Kannonzaki Lighthouse. A photo spot a few minutes’ walk away, where the contrast of green space and the emerald-green sea is beautiful. You can view Taketomi Island in the distance, and this is beloved locally as a sunset superb-view point too. It’s a royal-road course to visit as a set with Tojin Baka.

The representative of southern resorts, “Fusaki Beach”

At a distance of about 3 minutes by car from Tojin Baka is Fusaki Beach in front of Fusaki Resort Village. A maintained beach managed by a resort hotel, with stationed lifeguards and a jellyfish-prevention net, where even families and beginners can enjoy sea bathing with peace of mind. The sunset viewed from the end of the pier is famous too.

Ishigaki’s westernmost “Uganzaki”

Going a little further, about 20 minutes by car. Ishigaki’s westernmost Uganzaki is a place you’ll definitely want to visit too. The pure-white lighthouse and sheer cliffs, and clusters of Easter lilies in spring, are overwhelming. The route touring Tojin Baka, Kannonzaki Lighthouse, and Uganzaki in a series is a standard course of Ishigaki’s west-coast drive.

Michelin three-star “Kabira Bay”

If you have a little more time, try extending your steps to Kabira Bay, about 30 minutes by car. Ishigaki’s greatest superb-view spot that earned three stars in the Michelin Green Guide. Ride a glass boat and peer at the coral reef floating in the Kabira Blue sea, and it’ll surely become an unforgettable memory.

Manners You Want to Know Before Visiting Tojin Baka

Before being a sightseeing site, Tojin Baka is a “grave” mourning victims and a “place of memorial.” When visiting, observe minimal manners and spend time quietly. It’s a precious trip, so you want to make it a visit that remains in your heart.

Worship quietly with respect

Talking loudly or making noise is strictly prohibited. Even though the decorations are beautiful, avoid touching the carvings and statues too. Putting your hands together and mourning the victims’ souls—visiting with such feelings engraves the place of Tojin Baka more deeply in your heart.

Photography is basically OK, but it’s safest to avoid recklessly stepping into the grounds or enjoying it like a photo session by striking poses. Keeping a natural sense of distance and quietly recording is in good taste.

Don’t approach off-limits areas

In the past, there were periods when you couldn’t approach the grave’s main body due to repair work or the danger of falling objects. When a rope of “Danger of falling objects / no entry” is strung, absolutely don’t go inside. Since it’s a measure for the building’s protection and visitors’ safety, keep to viewing from the outside.

Visiting after learning the history in advance is recommended

Tojin Baka is a place where you can feel it many times more deeply by visiting after knowing the historical background of the Robert Bowne incident. Checking Wikipedia or Ishigaki City’s tourist guide page in advance changes the emotion on-site. If visiting with family or friends, be sure to share the history before heading there.

Tojin Baka Sightseeing FAQ

How long does it take?

For just Tojin Baka, you can tour it sufficiently in about 20–30 minutes. If you enjoy the adjacent US airmen memorial monument and the sea scenery around the parking lot together too, securing about 40 minutes–1 hour lets you spend time with leeway. If visiting Kannonzaki Lighthouse as a set too, about 1.5 hours total is the guide.

Can I enjoy it with kids?

There are almost no steps or dangerous places, a near-barrier-free design accessible by stroller too. However, given the nature of being a “grave,” firmly tell your children too that it’s not a place to run around and play. It also becomes a good learning opportunity to know history.

Can I view it on rainy days?

Since it’s an outdoor facility, viewing will be with an umbrella. If the rain isn’t strong you can visit without problem, but to slowly see the decorations down to the details, a clear day is recommended. On rainy days, switching to indoor-type sightseeing sites like Ishigaki Stalactite Cave or Ishigaki Yaima Village is also an option.

Is it OK to visit in the evening / at night too?

There’s no hours limit, and the evening sunset time is an especially beautiful time slot. However, since at night there are few streetlights and, given the nature of a graveyard, it’s a somewhat atmospheric place, it’s better not to linger long after sunset and to return to the parking lot. After enjoying the sunset, the flow of returning to town and enjoying dinner is recommended.

What’s the priority of visiting it in Ishigaki sightseeing?

If you seek a superb view, Kabira Bay or Uganzaki take priority, and for snorkeling, Yonehara Beach; but Tojin Baka is a place not to be missed as a spot for “knowing Ishigaki’s history.” Combined with Kannonzaki Lighthouse and Fusaki Beach you can drop by in 30 minutes–1 hour, so be sure to stop by during a west-coast drive.

Summary | Touch Ishigaki’s History and Prayers for Peace at Tojin Baka

Tojin Baka is a vividly colored Chinese-style memorial grave standing quietly at Kannonzaki on Ishigaki’s west coast. It was built in 1971 to mourn the souls of Chinese coolies who lost their lives in the 1852 Robert Bowne incident. It’s a one-of-a-kind spot where the dazzling exterior, the air of quiet prayer, and Kannonzaki’s superb view are unified.

With good access of about 45 minutes by car from New Ishigaki Airport and 15–20 minutes from town, and parking and restrooms fully equipped. Combine it with nearby sightseeing sites like Kannonzaki Lighthouse, Fusaki Beach, Uganzaki and Kabira Bay, and a full course condensing the appeal of Ishigaki’s west coast is complete.

A place we want you to visit while feeling the tragedy of over 170 years ago, the islanders’ kindness that supported it, and the prayers for peace, rather than consuming it merely as a “photogenic place.” Be sure to visit Tojin Baka, which makes an Ishigaki trip deeper and more meaningful. It’ll surely become an unforgettable time.